6026 SHIRT
YOU NEED: shirting (cotton); fusing of 80 cm length and 90 cm
width; 6 pearl buttons of 10 mm diameter; 8 pearl buttons of 8 mm diameter.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
CUTTING:
1. Back part – 1 folded piece
2. Left part – 1 piece
3. Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Yoke – 2 folded pieces
5. Stand-up collar – 2 folded pieces
6. Collar – 2 folded pieces
7. Cuff – 4 pieces
8. Sleeve facing - 2 pieces
9. Right front part – 1 piece
10. Left
pocket – 1 piece
NB! In
you sew the model of checked fabric please take into account how checks coincide on seams.
Fusing: cuffs; left closure placket; right front band;
collar; stand-up collar.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of left closure
placket; right front band; outer collar; inner stand-up collar.
2. Press pocket’s upper edge into wrong side, press
the edge under and stitch along edge.
3. Embroider the emblem.
4. Press pocket’s open edges into wrong side and
stitch the pocket on left front part.
5. Press right front edging allowance into wrong side
along solid line, fold the edge under and stitch along the edge.
6. Press left closure placket’s allowance into wrong
side along outermost solid line, insert bending edge into the pleat and stitch
the pleat on the right side. Make 7.5 decorative stitch along font edging and
press closure placket.
7. Stitch the pleat on back part’s right side, press
it and tack along edges.
8. Lay yokes right sides together, insert upper back
part between them and stitch together adjusting edges. Turn right side out,
press and make decorative stitch.
9. Do the same to stitch the yoke to front part.
10. Pin slit facing’s right side on wrong side of
sleeve according to marks and stitch along the edge. Cut the fabric along cut
ling and process open edge with hem stitch. Slash allowances at slit base and
fold half width of facing into right side. Fold facing’s open edges and stitch
on the sleeve along edge.
11. Stitch sleeves into armholes coinciding marks,
then press allowances towards armholes. Cut armhole allowances to 5 mm, round
them with sleeve cap’s allowance, press toward the armhole and stitch to the
garment along the edge.
12. Stitch side/sleeve seam with a single lap seam
right side together. Press allowances backward, cut lower allowance’s half
width, fold upper edge under and stitch on the garment along the edge with
double decorative stitch.
13. Reinforce one stand-up and one collar with the
fusing. Stitch both collars right sides together along outer edges. Turn the
detail right side out, press and make decorative stitch. Lay both stand-ups
right side together, insert the collar between upper edges laying reinforces
stand-up on reinforced collar, then stitch; continue stitching along closure
ejects. Press stand-up’s open edges into wrong side, insert neckline edge
between them and stitch along the edge; continue stitching along stand-up’s
upper edge. Make 7 mm decorative stitch along collar edge.
14. Make pleats into sleeve hems, press them as
directed and tack along edges.
15. Lay reinforced cuff on the soft one right sides
together, stitch along outer edges and make cuff detail. Turn the detail right
side out. Stitch reinforced side to sleeve hem right sides together. Press cuff
open edge into wrong side and stitch to the garment along the previous seam
making 7 mm decorative stitch along the perimeter. Make 1.5 cm decorative
stitch along the seam joining the cuff and sleeve hem.
16. Turn in shirt hem.
17. Make buttonholes into left front edging/stand-up collar
and cuffs. Sew buttons.