6001 TROUSERS

YOU NEED: gabardine; 40 cm of white cotton of 140 cm width; 10 cm of the fusing of 140 cm width; lining; zipper of 20 cm length; button of 22 mm diameter; 2 buttons of 10 mm diameter.

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Button catch – 1 piece

4. Back flap – 4 pieces

5. Side part – 2 pieces

6. Back valance – 2 pieces

7. Belt loop – 1 piece

8. Right waistband – 1 piece

9. Left waistband – 1 piece

10. Back facing – 4 pieces

White cotton:

11. Back sacking – 2 pieces

12. Front sacking – 2 pieces

Lining:

13. Front part – 2 pieces

Fusing: half of waistband’s width.

INSTRUCTIONS:

NB: use white threads for decorative topstitching.

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of waistband’s half-width.

2. Stitch front darts and press them, then tack to waist edge.

3. Lay side part’s wrong side on sacking’s right side according to marks. Fold inner edge and stitch along edge. Tack side part to sacking along open edges.

4. Stitch the sacking to the garment right sides together along pocket entrance. Turn right side out, press, then make decorative double topstitching.

5. Press the sacking in half (according to marking) and stitch along lower edges. Tack the sacking to garment’s waist edge.

6. Stitch back darts and press them.

7. Lay flaps right sides together, stitch along outer edges, turn details right side out, press and make decorative stitch at 5 mm from edges.

8. Lay corresponding valance’s wrong side on back sacking’s right side according to marks, fold inner edges under and stitch along edges. Tack the valance to sacking along open edges.

9. Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings into back parts: Press facings along the center wrong side out. Pin controversially folded facings on garment’s right side according to marks. Lay cotton sacking on lower facings. Lay the flap folded upward on upper facing and topstitch along both sides of marking at 5 mm distance. Cut the fabric between stitches chevronwise to stitches’ ends; turn the sacking into wrong side and make 1-cm facings. Fold the sacking double and topstitch its upper edge on upper facing’s allowance. Stitch sacking’s side edges together. On wrong side: topstitch facing’s ends on fabric triangles.

10. Make a pleat into the lining.

11. Stitch lining hems with zig zag.

12. Tack the lining to front part wrong sides along open edges.

13. Stitch side seams with lap seams.

14. Stitch middle front (to the closure)/back parts with lap seams pressing allowances rightwards.

15. Fold closure’s right valance wrong side out, stitch along outer edges, turn it right side out and press.

16. Lay left valance on closure’s correspondent edge right sides together, then stitch along the edge. Press valance allowances and make fixing stitch; press the valance into garment’s wrong side. Pin the zipper (folded sideward) on closure’s right edge; fold the valance right side out and lay it above coinciding edges; stitch all layers together. Make fixing stitch along zipper’s edge. Stitch zipper’s another side to left valance. Neaten allowances and stitch left valance on the garment. Make fixing zig zag stitch along valances’ lower edges (wrong side) to stitch zipper’s left edge with double stitch; make decorative stitch of 7 mm along closure edge.

17. Stitch inseams and neaten allowances.

18. Stitch waistbands. Fold the waistband along the center wrong side out and overstitch ends; turn the detail right side out and press it. Lay the waistband on garment’s waist edge with waistband’s strengthened edge, fold it downward, then stitch. Press waistband’s open edge inside and stitch the detail to the garment going on decorative topstitching along waistband’s perimeter.

19. Cut belt loop into six pieces. Neaten belt loops’ long edges, press them inside and stitch with double stitch.

20. Fold belt loops’ open edges under and topstitch on the waistband according to marks.

21. Press hems into wrong side, fold edges under and stitch along edges.

22. Make buttonholes into waistbands left end; set the button.