YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; concealed zip; lining;
piping; fusing.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Upper back part – 1 piece
2. Lower back part – 1 piece
3. Back yoke – 1 piece
4. Back inset – 1 piece
5. Upper front part – 2 pieces
6. Lower front part – 1 piece
7. Front inset – 1 piece
8. Inner cup – 2 pieces
9. Outer cup – 2 pieces
10. Side part – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back yoke – 1 piece
2. Back inset – 1 piece
3. Front inset – 1 piece
4. Inner cup – 2 pieces
5. Outer cup – 2 pieces
6. Side part – 2 pieces
Fusing:
1. Inner cup – 2 pieces
2. Outer cup – 2 pieces
3. Side part – 2 pieces
Our advice: you can use the fabric as the lining.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of inner/outer cups
as well as side part.
2. Stitch fabric inner cup
to outer cup. Neaten the seam and press it toward the center. Stitch side part
to cups. Neaten the seam and press it toward cups.
3. Stitch lining cups together. Then process them in the
same way as fabric ones. Stitch front inset to cups. Neaten front inset’s lower
edge separately.
4. Cut a strap. Fold the strap along the center wrong side out and make
a stitch at 0.5 cm from bending. Turn the strap right side out and press it.
Sew the strap to the cup.
5. Stitch upper front/back parts together along shoulder seam. Neaten the seam and press it backward.
6. Press the piping along
the center and overstitch neckline.
Neaten
armholes, fold them under and topstitch at 0.8 cm.
7. Lay upper front part on
the cup and stitch along lower edges. NB: armhole/neckline edges of
upper front part lay 1 m before cup’s edges. Stitch front inset to stitched
front details.
8. Fold
upper front part with the strap into front part’s right side. Lay cups on the
lining right sides together and overstitch along upper edge. Turn the details
right side out and press them.
9. Make inverted pleat into
lower front part. Fix pleat ends at 0.5 cm from upper edge. Stitch fabric
upper/lower front parts together. Neaten the seams and press them upward.
10. Stitch lining back inset to lining yoke. Neaten the seam and press it
sidewise.
11. Try
the garment on, adjust strap’s length and sew strap’s end to back part.
12. Lay
fabric upper back part on fabric yoke and stitch along lower edge. NB: upper back part’s armhole
lays 1 cm before yoke side edge. Stitch back inset to upper back part. Neaten
the seam and press it toward the inset.
13. Fold upper back
part with the strap into right side and overstitch back yoke with the lining
along upper edge. Turn the details right side out and press them.
14. Make
loose stitches at 0.5 cm along lower back part’s upper edge. Gather the fabric
slightly. Stitch fabric upper/lower back parts. Neaten the seams and press them
toward the inset.
15. Stitch side edges
excluding a slit into left side seam. Stitch right seam between lining edge and
the hem. Neaten seams. Press right seam frontward, press left seam apart
pressing closure slit. Stitch the zipper in. Fix the lining to zipper braid.
16. Topstitch lining hem
along the seam joining fabric details.
17. Neaten garment hem, fold
it under and topstitch at 0.5 cm from the edge.