YOU NEED: natural/mixed fabric; concealed zip; fusing.
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS
HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCES: 1.5 cm for the hem, 1 cm for other seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Center front part – 1 piece
4. Side front part – 2 pieces
5. Center front facing – 1 piece
6. Side front facing – 2 pieces
7. Back facing – 2 pieces
Fusing:
1. Back facing – 2 pieces
2. Center front facing – 1 piece
3. Side front facing – 2 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of back/center front/side front parts.
2.
Overstitch the neckline with the piping. Turn the seam out and press.
3. Stitch
back/side front facings together along side edges. Neaten the seam and press
them apart. Neaten facings’ lower edge.
4. Stitch
back relieves. Neaten them and press toward the center.
Stitch
side edges together. Neaten seams and press them backward.
5. Neaten
middle back edge. Stitch middle back seam up to closure notch. Press middle
back seam apart pressing closure slits. Stitch the zipper in.
6. Stitch
front relieves coinciding notches.
7. Stitch
facings along collar middle line. Stitch side front parts along collar middle
line. Neaten seams and press them.
8. Lay the
facing on side front part right sides together. Overstitch collar fly and
collar corners, then stitch the facing to front relieve seam. Slash seam
allowance in the corner. Neaten the seam between the corner and the hem and
press it sideward. Turn the dollar right side out and press it.
9. Lay the facing on
back part right sides together. Fold the facing at 5 mm before zipper’s edges
and pin to top’s upper edge. Fold allowances along the zipper into right side
and pin them to upper edge above the lining. Overstitch back part’s upper
edges. Fold closure allowances into wrong side. Fold the facing upward and
topstitch on back part on seam allowance at 1-2 mm from the seam. Fold the
facing into wrong side and fix to zipper braid. Press details.
10. Press
front armholes’/collar allowances inside. Topstitch details one on another
making stitches at 0.2 cm from edges.
11. Neaten
the hem, fold it into wrong side and topstitch at 1.5 cm from lower edge.