YOU NEED: wool or semi-wool, fusing, 1 button, zipper, decorative braid, lining.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR,
THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hem.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm)
to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front
part – 2 pieces
3. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces
4. Flap – 4 pieces
5. Pocket – 2 pieces
6. Front band – 2 pieces
7. Upper pocket facing – 2 pieces
8. Side pocket facing – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Upper pocket lining – 4 pieces
4. Side pocket sacking – 4 pieces
Fusing: outer stand-up, front band.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong
side of upper stand-up collar and front band.
2. Sew back dart, press
back darts towards back center. Sew front dart. Press front darn downwards.
3. Fold facings
of upper pocket and side pocket along the center, wrong side inside, and press
them.
4. Apply
stripe of fabric to pocket enter. Mark an auxiliary line at pocket facing which
is parallel to facing bending (stitching line). Mark auxiliary lines going
parallel to pocket entrance
(to sew facing and pocket lining). Sew facing and pocket lining
to marked line. Sew pocket lining at distance equal to ready facing width. Cut
pocket entrance stopping 1.5 cm before ends. Make diagonal notches at 1.5 cm
from pocket end. Pull the lining and facing right side out through this slit.
Fix pocket ends with double stitch at corners basing (on wrong side). Sew the
zipper in and sew lining second part to facing allowance. Slash pocket sacking
and stitch it. Do the same for upper and side pockets. Press ready pocket.
5. Fold flap details right side inside, then overstitch. Slash allowances of flap corners, then turn right side out. Press ready flap.
6. Neaten
upper edge of patch pocket. Press upper allowance of patch pocket, then topstitch it. Overstitch patch pocket outer contour and
press allowances in accordance with patterns, leaving pocket side slit free.
7. Mark
place of pocket and topstitch it on front part at 0.5 cm from pocket edge.
8. Sew the
zipper to front edges.
9. Lay front band on front part’s right side. Right
sides together, pin, and overstitch along edging. Overstitch edging along front
part up to the notch pointing end of sewing stand-up collar in. Sew lower edges
of front bands to front part strictly along marked hemline. Cut seams of
upper/lower corners of edging. Turn edgings right side out. Measure lengths of
edgings and make decorative stitch along edging at 0.7 cm from edge.
10. Overstitch lower stand-up collar with lower one; turn stand-up right
side out, slash corners and press the collar.
11. Sew back middle seam and press it apart. Sew shoulder/side seams and press them apart.
12. Sew
the flap. Turn the flap into right side and topstitch o.5 cm from joining seam.
13. Sew seams into lining, leaving a slit into right side seam. Press the seam towards front center, press back seams towards back center.
14. Sew
lower stand-up collar into garment neckline, sew upper stand-up collar into lining
waistcoat. Press allowances of seams joining stand-ups, close to seams.
15.
Overstitch front/back necklines with lining. Topstitch overstitch allowances at
0.2 cm from the seam. Sew the garment to front band outer edges and garment hem.
Turn the waistband right side out through side seam. Sew the slit into side
seam.