MATERIAL: artificial leather of two colours.
YOU NEED: clue interfacing;
separable zipper; lining.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE
CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE
CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE
COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back yoke – 2 details
2. Middle back part – 2 details
3. Lower back part – 2 details
4. Back contrast insert – 2
details
5. Side lower back part – 2 details
6. Side upper back part – 2 details
7. Front yoke – 2 details
8. Middle front part – 2 details
9. Upper front part – 2 details
10. Upper side front part – 2 details
11. Lower side front part – 2 details
12. Front contrast insert – 2
details
13. Stand-up collar – 2 details
14. Front band – 2 details
15. Sleeve – 2 details
16. Sleeve back insert – 2
details
17. Sleeve front insert – 2 details
OUR ADVICE: if wished, you can cut contrast back and
front inserts into additional segments, depending on the material length.
Clue
interfacing: front band,
stand –up collar, back yoke, front yoke; hem allowances: sleeve, front contrast
insert, back contrast insert.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Strengthen the front
band, stand-up collar, front yoke, back yoke, sleeve hem, front contrast insert
hem, back contrast insert hem.
2.
Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together) on the collar
fall side.
3. Sew
front yoke to front contrast insert. Make decorative stitch on 0.2 cm from
front yoke joining seam.
4. Sew
middle front part to front contrast insert. Make decorative stitch on 0.2 cm
from middle front part joining seam.
5. Sew
lower front part to front contrast insert. Make decorative stitch on 0.2 cm
from lower front part joining seam.
6. Sew
upper side front part to front contrast insert. Make decorative stitch on 0.2
cm from upper side front part joining seam.
7. Sew
lower side part to contrast front insert. Make decorative stitch on 0.2 cm from
lower side front part joining seam.
8. Sew
back yoke to back contrast insert. Make decorative stitch on 0.2 cm from back
yoke joining seam.
9. Sew
upper side part to back contrast insert. Make decorative stitch on 0.2 cm from
upper side back part joining seam.
10. Sew
middle back part to back contrast insert. Make decorative stitch on 0.2 cm from
back yoke joining seam.
11. Sew
lower back part to back contrast insert. Make decorative stitch on 0.2 cm from
lower side back part joining seam.
12. Sew
lower side back part to back contrast insert. Make decorative stitch on 0.2 cm
from lower side back part joining seam
13. Sew
shoulder and side seams.
14. Sew
inner stand-up collar to the neckline.
15. Fold
front parts right sides together coinciding yokes, then measure front edge
lengths. Sew the zipper to edges. Fold edges at zipper area under and press
through pressing cloth.
16. Sew
outer stand-up collar to the front band.
17. Fold
front band and front part right sides together. Overstitch ends of stand-up and
front band, from the front part side. Sew lower edges of front bands to front
part strictly along the marked line of hem turning-under. Cut front edge upper
and lower corners Turn edges into right side, trim seams. Make decorative
stitch on 0.5 cm from the edge.
18. Sew
sleeve back insert to the sleeve. Make decorative stitch on 0.2 cm from back
sleeve insert joining seam
19. Sew
sleeve front insert to the sleeve. Make decorative stitch on 0.2 cm from sleeve
front insert joining seam
20. Sew sleeve
edges. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches.
21. Sew
shoulder pads and sleeve heads into.
22. Sew seams into lining, then sew sleeves into, with a hole in the sleeve front seam. Sew sleeves into and press the lining.
23. Sew lining
to front bands and outer stand-up inner edges. Press joining seam allowances
apart, then sew near seam. Sew lining sleeves and
garment hems to fabric ones.